DIY Christmas Card Photo Shoot

Last Christmas I decided to get a little creative and take photos of my munchkin for our Christmas Card. This is how they turned out (& how you can create your own shoot!).


DISCLAIMER: I am very much an amateur and undoubtedly a professional will have quite a critiques. If you’re an amateur, too, this post is for you ūüėČ

white sheets
white lights with a white cord (more is better!)
tape and/or tacks
iPhone camera (bonus: use a better one!)
heating pad (optional)

I knew I wanted the “glowing white lights” look. I made a quick google search, but wasn’t finding what I was looking for so just got creative on my own.

Picking the right room:¬†I chose to set up against a wall in a room with a window facing north…so there would be plenty of light, but no hard shadows. I think this is key! In these photos, the window is behind me so my daughter is facing the light. (This could also work in a west facing room in the morning, or east facing room in the afternoon.)
Tip: Don’t block the light with your own shadow

Setup: First, move the bed up against the wall, and make it with just the fitted sheet.
Then tape white lights to the wall (& wished I would have used WAY WAY MORE lights).
Finally, hang the loose sheet over the top of the lights.

You’ll have to fiddle with this a little bit. I found it easiest to use a little double sided tape throughout the middle of the sheet to be sure the lights were pressed up against the material and really showing through.

If you want, place a heating pad under the sheet where your subject will be to help them stay warm. Take a few practice shots with your subject, and tweak accordingly. Maybe you need to move everything to the left, maybe you need to squat down so the closet doesn’t show, maybe you’ll need to move the subject forward/backward whatever.


Dress your babe & snap away! Just keep clicking. I use an app called PicTapGo to edit my iPhone photos; best $1.99 I’ve EVER spent. This app was recommended by¬†my wedding photographer, and dang. If you’ve seen those pictures you know she knows what she’s talking about!

Find your favorite online card maker I like¬†(a recommendation from my brother’s wedding photographer for all prints & projects). They don’t leave a watermark on their cards…which I kind of like ūüôā

Address…Label…and SEND!


Merry Christmas!

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“Picking Up” a New Book: Having a Martha Home the Mary Way by Sarah Mae (& progress calendar information)

I stumbled across this book on accident; an acquaintance on social media shared she just finished it and is happy with the way her home looks (& soul feels!) for the first time in quite a while.

It’s titled “Having a Martha Home the Mary Way” written by Sarah Mae.


I was intrigued.

I run¬†my own business from home and have a standing joke with one of my partners that “Either my house is clean or my business is doing well…never both!” Haha- isn’t that the truth.

I wonder, though, if I could have both?

If I’m being COMPLETELY honest, I feel as though delegation of house cleaning will happen in the near future, but it’s not a reality yet so this book obviously caught my attention.

If I was going to do this, though, I knew¬†I’d need a calendar (read: instant gratification) to stay on track. There’s just something about those ‚úĒÔłŹs that get me excited!

first calendar photo

{Send me an email ( if you plan on reading this yourself someday & would like the PDF of my calendar. I am NOT selling this; I’d love to simply pass along a free resource that I think will work well for me.}

IKEA Hack Coffee Table


You may or may not know that when I moved from Wisconsin to California, my dad drove out with me and all my stuff, then flew back. We made it to somewhere in Iowa and broke down. Yup! That happened… Long story short (I didn’t get my car in CA until 33 days later) we ended up transferring¬†everything from my car¬†into a rental truck¬†and going the rest of the way.

All items made the transfer EXCEPT (dun dun dun)….our coffee table!

It was a “beautiful” SOLID old piece my husband found on the curb during his college days. I cannot even tell you how many times that table has been danced on, spilled on, and dinged up. We kept¬†it, though, because it was a genuinely sturdy piece of wood with a ton of character, many stories, and GREAT potential fora refurbishing.

{I’m not even sure how, but through coordination of a few traveling nomads, it ended up back in Wisconsin and is currently being stored in my dad’s shop…going on 3 years now. SOMEDAY!}

Upon arriving in California, we lived without a coffee table (for way too long), then finally broke down and bought a $19.99 piece of black plywood from IKEA. It got the job done, but didn’t ever really “fit”…especially once we bought & moved into our home.

Last November we kind of decided it would be fun to tackle a team project…the coffee table seemed like a no brainer!

I searched around for a little inspiration, and found these two tables:

I’m very happy with how it turned out! Here is a loose set of directions if you’d like to make your own.

‚óŹIKEA table (or any old table)
‚óŹtape measurer & pencil
‚óŹwood slabs (cuts & amount dependent on design desire; see directions)
‚óŹsaw horses
‚óŹtable saw
‚óŹdistressing tools (hammer, chisel, chain, wire brush, etc)
‚óŹdesired color stain (brushes/sponges/rags)
‚óŹwood glue
‚óŹclamps (at least 4 small & 1 large)

1) Making Cuts
First, decide what you want your table to look like. What kid of wood? How far should the edges hang over?

We ended up deciding to go with 4×1 slabs, and chose pine-because I like the character the knots add- with the wood hanging over on each end (approximately 1/5 inches on the ends & 1 inch on the sides). This is completely up to you.

  1. Take a few measurements
  2. Do a little math
  3. Head to the lumber yard & buy what you need
  4. Make cuts yourself, or have them cut right at the lumber yard
  5. Lay slabs out across saw horses as if a table top.

table wood

I then (spent way too much time) flipping, turning, and rearranging the boards to get just the look I wanted. We labeled the bottom to ensure they would stay in that order.

During this extensive flipping, turning, cutting, I decided to add a twist! (pun intended). Instead of both the top and the bottom levels of the table running parallel boards, I decided the bottom level slabs should run perpendicular with the top level. I like the dimension it added!

2) Distressing the Wood

I’ve never done this before! It was great fun. I was definitely way more “meticulous” than necessary – it is probably best to just go at it without thinking about it!

distress tools

We didn’t have a chain, otherwise I would have used that. Instead, I used a hammer, chisel, & wire brush. After seeing the end product, some of my favorite spots are the biggest gouges, which I didn’t know until after it was sitting finished and in my living room. Feel free to youtube a few videos on how to do this!

Here are a few of my favorite marks:

I would recommend sanding all the corners down so they’re somewhat curved, giving an older look.

3) Staining the Wood

Grab a color stain that compliments the rest of your furniture, and start staining! I prefer to use a piece of cotton (rag, old t-shirt, etc) over a brush or a foam brush, but any are okay. Apply generously, wait 24 hours, then do it again! Be sure to go over the ends and underneath; anywhere the wood will be exposed.

stained wood

4) Applying Wood to Table

{We started with the bottom level first to “practice” as any mistakes would be less noticeable}

  1. Clean the old table, sand the surface for maximum adhesive, then clean again.
  2. Line up the boards as desired. Take a few measurements to make sure everything is set, then double check it just one more time.
  3. Remove one end board, apply glue to the top of the table, line up carefully, then place board to desired spot on table.
    glue on table
  4. Apply pressure being careful the board does not shift.
  5. Take the board next to it, apply glue to top of table and SIDE of board (that it will be touching), then press and hold it down.

  6. Continue and complete entire row. Repeat all steps for the 2nd level.

5) Applying Pressure with Clamps

Add clamps to ensure constant pressure is being applied for duration of dry time (see glue bottle).

clamped wood

  1. Lay down a piece of cardboard on top of your table surface to prevent scratching.
  2. Lay a scrap 2×4 perpendicular across the top of the cardboard – we used two, one on either end of the table.
  3. Squeeze clamps on both ends of the 2×4 from top of surface to underneath in order to squeeze boards to table (see photo).
  4. In between these two boards, lay a large clamp (without a 2×4) perpendicular to the table boards. Squeeze clamp from ¬†one side to the other in order to squeeze boards together (See photo).
  5. Let clamps sit for 24 hours

6) Apply Polyurethane 


  1. Using a foam brush, spread a coat of polyurethane over your table to prevent stains from every day use.
  2. Let dry for about 24-48 hours, then apply at least one more coat.

Move your new table inside and enjoy!

Here was our final team product!

final 4final 2final 1final 3

Is it a forever piece? Nah.
…but it was definitely fun to create and will certainly get us through the next few years.

Share your own hack in the comments!

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DIY Infinity Scarf

I made a few of these scarves as Christmas gifts last year- so simple!

photo 3-13

~2 yards of material
sewing machine
thread to match material

Head to the fabric store to choose your fabric.
Good news! You don’t need to be an experienced sewer for this project. If you fall into the unexperienced¬†category, it’s probably safe to assume you don’t own a sewing machine (neither do I!) so just ask the owner of the one you’re borrowing for a quick 5 minute rundown.

I found it best to have a large flat space besides my sewing machine to work on. This piece of material is large!

Fold this material in half the long way…the HOT DOG WAY….with the INSIDE of the material facing out. In these photos the folded end is on the left, and the open end is on the right. Most material from a fabric store is cut very unevenly, so the goal here is to line up your crooked ends so all sides¬†are overlapping.

Trim excess fabric as straight as possible. This is easier to do with stripe/plaid patterns. If it’s not perfect- don’t sweat it! Scarves end up very wrinkly when worn and nobody except you will know ūüėČ

photo 1-10

Next, you’ll want to pin these edges together along¬†all three open sides as the photo below shows. The pins don’t need to be very close together.

photo 2-13

Drop your needle on the sewing machine at the folded end. Run your needed a little bit backwards toward the folded side to close up that hole, then run toward in a straight line all the way until the first corner. I’m pretty sure experienced sewers sew right over the pin; I pulled each pin out right before the needle reached them.

photo 4-9

When you get to the corner, you’ll need to turn the fabric. There is an easy way to do this without tangling the thread. 1) be sure your needle is DOWN in the material 2) lift up the “feet” of your sewing machine 3) turn your fabric 90 degrees 4) lower the feet. ¬†Continue sewing down the next edge.

Processed with Moldiv

When you get to the next corner, turn your fabric the same way as before. This time, though, do not sew all the way to the last corner. Leave yourself roughly enough room to stick your hand inside the open slot.

photo 4-10

When you get to this point, you’ll cut the thread and remove the fabric from the machine.

Go ahead and trim up any edges or the sides that may be too far from your sewing line. Then trim the two sewed corners as shown below so they do not cause a bulge in the final product.

Stick your hand in the open space, and turn the entire scarf right side out. (There is no need to sew up the part you left open; it will close up in another step).

photo 3-12

Next, you’ll need to lay the piece very flat so the short edges line up as shown below. You can begin to see the scarf take shape!

photo 4-11

Overlap these edges and pin them together. I found it best to overlap quite a bit so it isn’t too “thick” along the seam. You can also overlap so your pattern meets up, if applicable.

Sew together. This section will definitely be thicker than the last; I found it best to slow down for a straighter edge. Again, scarves get very wrinkly so it doesn’t have to be perfect.

photo 2-15

You’ll want to drop your needle slightly inside, then move backward over the edge (just like the beginning). Come back forward and sew all the way to the end, running over the edge.

Lastly, try the scarf on, twisting one time.


photo 3-13

A quick variation I also tried was two different materials. The only difference is that you’ll only need 1 yard of each. At the very beginning you’ll sew these pieces together along one side (be sure to “stack” them and then sew so there is a clear inside & outside edge), unfold so you have one large piece. Start back up at the very beginning by folding the entire piece in half the “hot dog” way.

Below is the united project- completely unfolded on the left and how you would wear it in the right ūüôā


Enjoy! Happy Scarfing!
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Spruce up the Laundry Space

I grew up in the Midwest where laundry rooms are all….INDOORS!

While looking at houses in Southern California, I was a bit horrified to see the first few had their laundry space in the garage. GASP! The Garage? Cars and saw dust and tools belong there…

After seeing about 30 houses and EVERY single house was the same, I accepted this as the reality of my new home. It’s still a little weird, but I’m getting over it…especially since I had some GREAT help making my laundry space feel a little cleaner with a quick spruce!

Laundry Room

Laminate Decorative Shelf (we bout a large one and cut to size)
Brackets (we used 6)
Track for brackets (we used 3)
Tension rods (we used 2; one for each “side”)
Regular Curtain rod (we used 1 for the back wall)
Fabric of your choice
Rug of your choice

-Measure out the area you’d like to close off
-Purchase curtain rods to fit; follow hanging instructions
-Purchase shelving to fit that space based on your preferences; follow hanging instructions
-Choose material; I’d recommend something BRIGHT and CLEAN feeling for this particular space (I chose ours from Joann Fabrics)
–I wanted a looser fit for my “curtains” so I bought extra material to create the wrinkly look.
–My mom sewed these; she chose to create multiple panels rather than cut slits around the shelving brackets.
-Grab a rug (this one was about $10 at Home Goods)

All in all- the total cost was $80.00 (this will vary heavily based on your material purchased for the curtains). For me, it was definitely worth it to spruce up my laundry space!

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Monkey Fist Nautical Curtain Rod- DIY

While choosing themes for the bedrooms, we decided that perhaps a nautical theme for our own room might be a little cliche. We did, however, decde this would be an incredibly appropriate theme for our guest room for our visitors who are coming to stay just a mile and a half from the sea. Right?!

I found these curtain rods at Pottery Barn, but wasn’t about to pay $90.00 for them….so naturally to etsy I went. I LOVE etsy…for two reasons.
1) Yay small businesses! You have my support any day.
2) Most of the time it inspires me to get crafty myself.

Much to my dismay, the price of this curtain rod on etsy was even higher than Pottery Barn! WHAT?! Aw man….$142.00.

 Screen Shot 2015-02-18 at 1.39.13 PM   Screen Shot 2015-02-18 at 1.35.21 PM

Decision made. I’m doing this on my own.

I trotted off to Michaels and bought 15′ of rope for $5.99….which is probably way more expensive than if I just had my husband go to a marina and buy it in bulk; oh well. Here’s the brand I bought; I ended up using about 1/2 the roll for one side:

Screen Shot 2015-02-18 at 1.42.11 PM

Luckily, the old homeowners left these pretty ugly curtain rods for us. Since I was covering up the ball on the end (and gold is totally fine in a nautical room) I spent a whole $0.00 on the rod. Feel free to shop for these on your own at a Ross/TJMaxx/Marshalls/Home Goods kinda store…it doesn’t really matter what they look like since you’ll be covering up the ends, anyway.

These two supplies (plus a knife to cut the rope) are all you need!

photo 1-5

The first thing you need to do is teach yourself to tie a Monkey Fist. I’d recommend going to youtube and just watching a quick 4 minute video on how to do so. For those who are too anxious and just want to keep going, here are the instructions and process as I tied my knot:

Monkey Fist -large

1. wrap 3x loosely around fingers
2. turn 90*; wrap 3x outside #1
3. Turn 45*; wrap 3x outside #1 & inside #2
*Note: You can choose to wrap 4 or 5 times (instead of 3) as the Pottery Barn & etsy rods show above.

Be sure to leave the knot to be plenty loose as the curtain rod still needs to fit inside.

photo 4

Pick a loose spot for the rod, and carefully wedge the ball in there. Keep in mind you can always rotate the knob so the perfect side faces the outside of the room.

photo 5

Begin to tighten knot. Once you’re close to being finished, pull the edge of the top underneath the nearest “underpass” …simply cut and tuck inside.

Add your curtain, and hang! The finished product isn’t so bad (especially when you consider the money saved)! TADA!

photo 1-6 photo 2-6

Have fun and keep me posted on your own projects!